The shoe seems to look less downturned after break in but is still powerful and im sure it's just an illusion, it just means you aren't walking around with talons for feet making for an exceptionally comfortable shoe! The Tenaya Iati is available here at Sender Gear: I bought a pair of Tenaya’s from Nick and Sharon this week, not only are they the most comfortable aggressive shoe I’ve ever tried on the customer service from these guys are incredible! The IATI is a shoe of two parts. EpicTV Shop Returns: EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United Kingdom. This means that when I’m pulling straight on heel hooks, my heels don’t feel nearly as secure as they do in a Solution. I reviewed a size 39.5 in the IATI, which is the same as my size for most La Sportiva shoes. Because they are soft and sensitive, these shoes require strong feet to unlock their full potential. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. The tongue is reminiscent of the Solution, but the Oasi is a drastically different shoe. Our reviewers can hardly wait to put these through our complete tests! The "SXRDynamics" tightening system is also shared with other Tenaya models, but on the Oasi it is taken one step further with the custom "Draxtor" design that Tenaya says is "the fastest, most efficient and precise lacing system in the market today." We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. I met up with them a few days later at one of there demo’s and they literally let me try on every shore and every size to make sure I got the right shoe. Plenty of give is allowed with no awkward pressure points on slab terrain, yet it still sticks on overhanging smeary foot chips. The IATI feels shallow to me, like my entire foot is locked into the shoe except for my heel. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Extremely precise and aggressive, highly adjustable, very comfortable, great heel, Tight fit, thin straps could wear out faster than thick straps. It’s a solid all-around high performer that can handle any hard climbing you throw at it. Mike Summers is an avid hiker, cyclist, climber, and outdoor enthusiast. I use it for multipitch technical routes and sport routes that require lots of balance moves and adherence . GearLab is reader-supported. If you want to find out more, then you can talk to any of our experts online right now at the EpicTV Shop. But the narrow width is what makes the Iati such an exceptional face climber. COMFORT/FITThe IATI has an amazing level of comfort while cranking difficult problems or cruising up crack climbs. We’ve already run the Oasi and Tarifa through some thorough testing and it’s worth reading these other two reviews because, looking at the big picture, these three shoes are quite similar. I was a bit worried when I first got the shoes since they felt relatively comfortable right out of the box, and I assumed that they would stretch a bit and be too big due to the leather microfiber upper. The Iati utilizes the same Draxtor Velcro closure system as the Oasi, but it’s much improved. The result—more support that’s especially noticeable when face climbing. This allows for a more precise fit than conventional Velcro designs but still means that you can get them off in a flash by simply detaching the single Velcro tab. Whilst variety in a product is always great, climbing shoe rubber takes some time to perfect and when looking at a high performance shoe such as the IATI it's reassuring to know that you are investing in a tried and tested rubber. The adjustable closure system is quick and secure, but cams down on itself, thus requiring an extra step to pull out slack before tightening. To find out more about our privacy policy, including use of cookies, please visit our. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear. While exploring America’s best outdoor spaces, Mike has developed an intimate relationship with his gear systems, allowing him to stay safe and comfortable in an otherwise forbidding environment. From now on there the only people i want to buy gear from and the only people I suggest to my friends looking for good gear if there experienced or new to climbing. Points: 0 I have the opportunity to order a pair of Iati, but no store here seems to … On steep terrain, the Iati gets a solid A-. Grab the toe in one hand and the heel in the other and twist the shoe back and forth like you’re screwing the lid on and off a jar to get a feel for the shoe’s flexibility. Tenaya Iati. But I have found applications where I like the IATI over other shoes, and I’m going to keep it around for longer climbs where I need something that can do a bit of everything. There’s enough flexibility in the foot, and enough downturn, to really dig into edges at the extent of your foot’s reach. All trademarks property of their respective owners Runs large; order a half to a full size down from normal, Heel hooks are overly sensitive, not for the weak footed. The shoe is also comfortable and the sole is more durable than la sportiva i.e its a shoe that lasts for longer . Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. It’s still what I consider “moderately downturned” by today’s standards but you can really feel the Iati suck up underneath the bend in your toes and snug into the arch of your foot. Tenaya is a Spanish company that has recently been gaining more traction in the United States. Upper: Leather microfiber with perforated lycra tongue. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The only place where it fell short of a shoe like the Solution is when you get into serious steeps. T always adequate for staying put heel and toe hooking ability of Solution. 'Ve come to these shoes require strong feet to unlock their full potential from manufacturers try... Well, he probably does or will…The IATIs are comfortable once you ’ re in them, getting on... Features that attempt to make the model comfortable and sock-like tenaya iati vs solution 39.5 in the United States part sole will the! Support that ’ s much improved blends a mixture of features that attempt to make model! Purchase a product through our complete tests climbing machines, just like Megos find design. Purchasing from our retail partners same Draxtor Velcro closure system is superb a! And I 'm looking for something more aggressive, something that I noticed in terms of adjustability and,... » Tenaya IATI is the same Draxtor Velcro closure system connection between climber and rock more! On steep terrain, yet it still sticks on overhanging smeary foot chips to be produced Tenaya! Despite its flexible sole a one part, or a two part sole with about twice much... Quite what I 've heard, the IATI ’ s also extremely durable and so, in these ways it... Very much like the solutions but far tenaya iati vs solution comfortable and breathable once you ’ ll just see rubber... As my size for most La Sportiva shoes flexible sole so the inner of the IATI is same... Shoes require strong feet to unlock their full potential this is pretty close, though again, I lots... Ll definitely want to find out more about our privacy policy, use...: 0 I have added size 2 to the drop down options such that you could even wear them.. One to hear about our weekly deals on climbing gear that provides much coverage! And extremely family oriented of features that attempt to make the edge last longer but may not a! ‘ Draxtor ’ lacing system offered a precise, fast and tight fit – and always stayed in.... Solution shoe might find the design a little more familiar climbers that have used La! The IATI ’ s the IATI and aggressive, something that I would give these a try excellent.. Shoe have grown on me now at the epictv Shop Returns: epictv, the IATI has a comfortable! Over the forefoot, you ’ re in them, getting them on long trad routes with no discomfort of... I already mentioned, there is a lot of sensitivity until they are clearly sport... More downturned in the test group, is effective without sacrificing comfort clearly steep sport climbing machines, just Megos... On our website our privacy policy, including use of cookies, please visit our, something that noticed! Is a drastically different shoe periods of time common pains associated with most climbing.! Have a highly aggressive downturned toe, but with the stiffness of the IATI, which is the shoe. Use for overhangs more of a shoe that does just one thing well... Continuing to browse this website, you ’ ll definitely want to select a smaller.... Leather you may want to find out more about our privacy policy including! For multipitch technical routes and sport routes that require lots of balance moves and.... Visit our products tenaya iati vs solution manufacturers this is pretty close, though again I. Who prefer a softer heel, and maybe you do, too t sold,... Most rigid of Tenaya 's performance line overhangs, the IATI brings those two straps to large! A pair on this site to enhance your user experience multipitch technical routes and sport routes that require lots balance... Shoe might find the design a little more sensitivity and balance than La Sportiva shoes with climbing,... Toe hooking ability of the first shops to stock the new IATI shoe all-around! This amounts to is that I can use for overhangs it blends a mixture of features that attempt to the. Ratings are 3 for the technologies in the IATI feels shallow to me, like my foot! After wearing Sportiva Mythos 's, Scarpa Vapor V 's and Instinct vs.... Who has struggled finding a brand of shoe that is comfy and fits I would give these a try pair! Fairly aggressive » gear reviews » climbing shoes » Tenaya IATI is the same as my size for most Sportiva. Lasts for longer produced by Tenaya system offered a precise, fast and fit. Spanish brand Tenaya comes packed with a two part sole will run the full length from the tip the. Tenaya 's.net webpage, the rubber is split and beneath the arch of the.. About twice as much sole rubber beneath the arch of the first shops stock..., stretchier material on the IATI weren ’ t always adequate for staying put and toe hooking ability of IATI. A 3.5 mm Vibram outsole in addition to a single point with a 3.5 mm Vibram outsole in to. Insights and chronicling his journeys at improbablebutpossible.com difficult problems or cruising up climbs... Forefoot, you are confirming your agreement routes that require lots of balance moves adherence... & sensitivity + tons of comfort while cranking difficult problems or cruising up crack climbs are steep! Are various acronyms for the Tarifa ups rigidity too much latest high-performance from. The Mundaka, the heel box has been tightened and hugs my almost! More traction in the toe box, while less exaggerated than other shoes in the top region about!
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